A family criticized my service and left the restaurant without paying an $850 bill—but I turned it to my advantage. From the moment they sat down, they treated me like their personal servant. Fingers snapped in my direction whenever their water glasses were only half-empty. Is this what passes for service these days? the man boomed at one point, sending the steak he'd ordered back because it was "overcooked." His wife, not to be outdone, shoved her soup toward me, sneering that it was too salty.